Custom-Made Services - Bespoke Vs. Made To Measure Vs. Off the Peg

What Do These Terms Mean?

Most of our items offer a huge range of sizes and colours—in fact, any item where you select options from a drop-down menu will be made to order just for you, as there are too many variants to stock everything.

If you order an item in an off-the-peg size (e.g., S, M, L or UK 8, 10, 12, or 34A, B, C), it will be made to fit our standard measurements for that size. This often works perfectly—check your measurements against our detailed charts to see if it suits you.

For a precise fit, you'll need to send us measurements (we'll provide the list needed for each item once we receive your order). We can either work straight from your instructions to leather (made to measure) with no fitting test, or from instructions via one or two cotton fittings to finalise the design before going to leather (bespoke).

Simply add the made to measure or bespoke service to your order on the item page.

Bespoke and Made to Measure Services: What’s the Difference?

Both services involve sending measurements and creating an individual pattern for you.

Both receive the same premium workmanship—all of our finished items take days of intricate, delicate hand work.

The difference between bespoke and made to measure is the series of cotton fitting toiles sent to your home, and the time it takes to work through this fitting process.

Made to Measure can be perfect for smaller items like undies, suspender belts, regular-size bras, many skirts, and some underbust corsets—all things where a quarter inch too big or small won't change the fit at all. It offers a quicker, less expensive alternative, and sometimes that's exactly what you need.

Bespoke is ideal for precision tailoring, such as tight jeans, tight-fitted shirts, tight dresses, over-bust corsets, and some plus-size bras—all things where even a quarter inch too big or small could ruin the item. Ask Jules for advice if you're unsure.

In Detail

Our Bespoke Service

Upon ordering, we'll send you a list of measurements to take at home—please respond within four weeks (see 'Sometimes We Have to Cancel Orders' below).

From these, we'll send your first fitting toile (a white cotton replica of your order) with a small checklist for you to review.

Report back via email with any alterations. Digital pictures with your instructions are a real help so we can see how the toile fits.

We'll need measurements rather than guestimates (cms or inches), and feedback within 14 days of receiving the fitting (see 'Sometimes We Have to Cancel Orders' below).

We'll adjust your pattern as necessary and send a new fitting, or go straight to leather—most items take 1-2 fittings.

Important Points:

• Please send initial measurements ASAP, and report fitting feedback within 14 days. Delays can cause fitting problems and order cancellations (see below).
• Although custom-made items duplicate your final agreed fitting, some customers want alterations after sign-off and delivery.
• Within limits, we can alter finished items, but we're not magicians—not everything is possible without deconstructing. Any changes after delivery are treated as a new order and charged at £40 per hour plus materials and postage (1-hour minimum, then per 1/2 hour).

The most common reasons for post-delivery alterations:

• Using guestimates instead of exact measurements (often on waistbands)—always use a tape measure.
• Expecting to lose weight but not doing so.
• Going on holiday and changing shape.
• Taking ages between fitting and feedback.

Our Made to Measure Service

We'll send you a list of measurements to take at home—it's straightforward, but you'll need a friend to help. We'll use these to make your personal paper pattern.

Please send initial measurements ASAP. Delays can cause fitting problems and order cancellations (see below).

Although made to measure items duplicate your instructions, some customers want alterations after delivery.

Within limits, we can alter finished items, but not everything is possible without deconstruction. Any changes after delivery are treated as a new order and charged at £40 per hour plus materials and postage (1-hour minimum, then per 1/2 hour).

Sometimes We Have to Cancel Orders

Making custom orders is a collaborative process between us and you, and sometimes that relationship breaks down, requiring us to cancel the order to protect from financial loss. The usual ways this happens:

Failure to Send Measurements:

There are valid reasons why this can happen, and we've found the easiest, least stressful solution is a full refund, allowing you to re-order when ready.

To keep things smooth, if a client hasn't supplied measurements within four weeks of ordering, we'll consider the order cancelled and issue a full refund.

Failure to Give Feedback on Fittings Sent:

When we send your fitting, we expect detailed feedback within a reasonable time (say, two weeks). If after three weeks we haven't heard, we'll send a reminder. If you haven't supplied enough feedback to continue after four weeks, we'll consider the order cancelled and issue a Lux Tenebrae credit note for the amount paid, minus a charge for work done (£40 per hour plus materials and postage).

Our goal is always a perfect fit - let's make it happen together.